In this part, we'll discuss the fundementals of having an award winning exterior. <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
<u>Area 1</u>: Let's start with the wheel areas, before washing the car. With your hose at a fairly high pressure, spray down the wheel wells. Often they have turned a bit gray from road wear and tear. After fully cleaning the wells with your soapy soft brush, use a dab of touch-up paint. Remember upon arrival at the show, to brush off the stone pebbles that mysteriously accumalated on the bottom edge of the wells. Use a proper wheel cleaner spray that is designed soley for wheels, and wash off as directed. DO NOT use tire cleaner on the wheels!!! Very important: Do not apply any foam tire cleaner, where you "Spray and walk away". All you are doing is putting a shiny, temporary coating on dirt and grime. Within a short time period you will have point costing smears. Instead, use an old semi-firm brush to wash & scrub down your tires, it will be worth it.
<u>Area 2</u>: Wash the car. Get out the old hose, spray down the car for 3 minutes, then get a beverage. Next, flood your car with water again and walk away. Now locate your wash mitt, car wash soap, and what you plan on drying the car with. For the 3rd (and final) time, soak the car down. All dirt, dust, and droppings should be softened up and ready to gently wash away. Do not use too much soap as it entices a cloudy finish, this includes the windshield. Decision time on how to dry the car: (1) get in, put the pedal to the metal and circle the block 20 times, or (2) use soft cotton towels (caution... clean towels washed in laundry soap, might streak), or (3) get out the chamois, caution again-- it must be a real deluxe chamois, not the one from the dollar store that feels like sandpaper, or (4) get out the 100 mph leaf blower and watch all the dirt water and debris shoot from areas never touched by human hands. This works great, but stand a little back from the emblems, or they may become airborne. <img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
<u>Area 3</u>: Find everything you missed. For this, you need a nice spray cleaner, window spray, a couple tiny paint brushes, and a few small clean rags. First open up the gas bay door... yup, this area is open game for judges to nail you. Clean it well, and throw the rag away. Secondly, clean the license plate unless you plan on driving with it off. Third, check all emblem areas, and shoot some spray cleaner on your paint brush (or q-tip) to touch up edges and crevices. Fourth, Spiff up behind the mirrors, under the bumpers, around the window trim, inside the hood grooves, and elsewhere as needed. Now what about all the rusty and discolored bolts you just noticed? Too late now to remove and replace! Get out the "point saving" black and silver paint pens you bought at the hobby shop. This 5th step of a couple dabs here and there will make nuts and bolts look like new. Last step is back to the grill area. Sit on your butt and stare at the radiator. How did all those fried bugs get there? Here's an area judges find, and your competitors overlook. A good 5 minutes spent here is worth more points than 58 minutes of rewaxing your hood. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Use lost of spray, a small taped handle paint brush, and a couple toothpicks to very carefully dislodge all those nasty creamated critters.
<u>Area 5</u>: More decisions-- to touch or not to touch? Count up all the stone chips bigger than a paint dot. You will loose points here, but it is a big, big chance to try covering up these chips. Choice 1 is to fetch that "exact match" paint bottle with the brush built into the cap. Do you really think that this too thin, runny stuff is going to work?? Oh well. Risky choice 2 is to use the paint pens. Start by testing a low down chip. Apply a tiny dab, then carefully rub it out, Dab and rub out again from 3 to 10 times. This should produce a spot that at least blends in. Let it dry down, and later squirt the area with your final spray cleaner. Works for some people, but do it at your own risk. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
<u>Area 6</u>: Magic in a spray can. If you don't have a can of tire spray, speed over to the store and find a can. Get a couple of pieces of cardboard to use as a paint finish shield. Go to it, glently spray in a circular motion, and presto your wheel wells and tires will shine without streaking. The final step is to crouch way, way down and look at any visible suspension and frame areas. Lay flat down on your cardboard and using cheap cleaner spray blast away.
<u>Area 1</u>: Let's start with the wheel areas, before washing the car. With your hose at a fairly high pressure, spray down the wheel wells. Often they have turned a bit gray from road wear and tear. After fully cleaning the wells with your soapy soft brush, use a dab of touch-up paint. Remember upon arrival at the show, to brush off the stone pebbles that mysteriously accumalated on the bottom edge of the wells. Use a proper wheel cleaner spray that is designed soley for wheels, and wash off as directed. DO NOT use tire cleaner on the wheels!!! Very important: Do not apply any foam tire cleaner, where you "Spray and walk away". All you are doing is putting a shiny, temporary coating on dirt and grime. Within a short time period you will have point costing smears. Instead, use an old semi-firm brush to wash & scrub down your tires, it will be worth it.
<u>Area 2</u>: Wash the car. Get out the old hose, spray down the car for 3 minutes, then get a beverage. Next, flood your car with water again and walk away. Now locate your wash mitt, car wash soap, and what you plan on drying the car with. For the 3rd (and final) time, soak the car down. All dirt, dust, and droppings should be softened up and ready to gently wash away. Do not use too much soap as it entices a cloudy finish, this includes the windshield. Decision time on how to dry the car: (1) get in, put the pedal to the metal and circle the block 20 times, or (2) use soft cotton towels (caution... clean towels washed in laundry soap, might streak), or (3) get out the chamois, caution again-- it must be a real deluxe chamois, not the one from the dollar store that feels like sandpaper, or (4) get out the 100 mph leaf blower and watch all the dirt water and debris shoot from areas never touched by human hands. This works great, but stand a little back from the emblems, or they may become airborne. <img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
<u>Area 3</u>: Find everything you missed. For this, you need a nice spray cleaner, window spray, a couple tiny paint brushes, and a few small clean rags. First open up the gas bay door... yup, this area is open game for judges to nail you. Clean it well, and throw the rag away. Secondly, clean the license plate unless you plan on driving with it off. Third, check all emblem areas, and shoot some spray cleaner on your paint brush (or q-tip) to touch up edges and crevices. Fourth, Spiff up behind the mirrors, under the bumpers, around the window trim, inside the hood grooves, and elsewhere as needed. Now what about all the rusty and discolored bolts you just noticed? Too late now to remove and replace! Get out the "point saving" black and silver paint pens you bought at the hobby shop. This 5th step of a couple dabs here and there will make nuts and bolts look like new. Last step is back to the grill area. Sit on your butt and stare at the radiator. How did all those fried bugs get there? Here's an area judges find, and your competitors overlook. A good 5 minutes spent here is worth more points than 58 minutes of rewaxing your hood. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Use lost of spray, a small taped handle paint brush, and a couple toothpicks to very carefully dislodge all those nasty creamated critters.
<u>Area 5</u>: More decisions-- to touch or not to touch? Count up all the stone chips bigger than a paint dot. You will loose points here, but it is a big, big chance to try covering up these chips. Choice 1 is to fetch that "exact match" paint bottle with the brush built into the cap. Do you really think that this too thin, runny stuff is going to work?? Oh well. Risky choice 2 is to use the paint pens. Start by testing a low down chip. Apply a tiny dab, then carefully rub it out, Dab and rub out again from 3 to 10 times. This should produce a spot that at least blends in. Let it dry down, and later squirt the area with your final spray cleaner. Works for some people, but do it at your own risk. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
<u>Area 6</u>: Magic in a spray can. If you don't have a can of tire spray, speed over to the store and find a can. Get a couple of pieces of cardboard to use as a paint finish shield. Go to it, glently spray in a circular motion, and presto your wheel wells and tires will shine without streaking. The final step is to crouch way, way down and look at any visible suspension and frame areas. Lay flat down on your cardboard and using cheap cleaner spray blast away.
