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Discussion Starter #1
Today I went to the turbo mechanic. He sees the vacuum connections and laughs at me. I had connected the pressure gauge to the turbocharger's port. The pressure was 0.25 bar and I could here a little pss from the bov. But it wasn't the bov! It was the wastegate flattering. The bov wasn't working at all! So he connected the pressure gauge right up to the vacuum line and the bov finally opens it's spring fully at idle. I went for a ride and the car builds a pressure of 0,5 bar at 1st and 2nd gear and 0,6 at 3rd gear! The bov screams now and the boost is outstanding. And here comes the BIG problem.Unfortunatelly the bov is not fully compatible with MAF cars. So as the spring stays open at idle, and after the boost and releasing the throttle again, the car stalls and the rpm drop to 0. So I imagine that I need recirculate type bov. Any suggestions?
You can see it also in the photo. Is it possible to recirculate this one? And if so, the recirculation pipe goes after the filter and before the maf sensor or after the filter AND the maf sensor?


[Edited by japakos on Nov 11, 2005 12:36 AM]

[Edited by japakos on Nov 16, 2005 11:07 AM]
 

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The recirc. air needs to mixed with the already metered air. Look online to see if that bov can be revented with a kit, some of them can. Mine vents to the atmosphere but it doesnt leak at idle so its not much of a problem.
 

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A re-circulating BOV vents the spent boost out of one pipe......not a series of ports like yours.
The blown-off boost is then piped back into the intake tract.....between the MAF & the turbo.

Nick.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Still got problems. I installed a recirculation bov (a bosch one). The recirculation is going directly between the maf sensor and the turbo intake hose. The car still stalls, still makes funny kicks between gear changes and the usual problem when I have a gear and boost it up and move to neutral, the car has no idle and the rmp goes 0. Please help I have checked everything. The piping is good, the lines are good also. Anyone????
Oh and I forgot to mention that there is no noise coming out from the bov. Just a stupig shhh when I let the gas. I assume that the particular bov is for silence mode or sth like that. Anyway, please help I can't drive the car it stalls all the time

[Edited by japakos on Nov 30, 2005 7:26 AM]
 

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Discussion Starter #5
anybody? please help
 

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You are still exhibiting the exact same symptoms as if you were venting the boost into the atmosphere.......although it sounds as if your new BOV is working properly(re-circulating BOV`s are always fairly quiet).

I`m sure all the blown-off air cannot be going back into the intake pipe without leaking.
Are your pipes sealed properly?.........the best place for the spent boost to go back is well after the MAF, just before the turbo.

Although my layout is different, you can see my re-circulating BOV in this pic. :-


Cheers,
Nick.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've doublechecked every single pipe and every single connection hose and I found nothing. Everything is properly installed. I assume that the bov is totaled and leaks. I've ordered a bov $apexi,blitz,hks or something like that. The mechanic says that I need a dual piston recirculating bov. So I wait for the order. I put back my custom bov as you can see at the top photo. Now the sound is very powerfull although I don't know why, but the car still stalls and when I hit the gas at low rpms the car is jerking off like too much fuel or sth. Between shifting in not that smooth as the recirculating bov was but I'll live with it. You see , I like the sound of it and that worthless piece of crap plastic bosch bov doesn't do anything. I'm really pissed.
 

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Twin pistons bov's are great for either recirc. boost or blowing off in the atomsphere. I run one and vent to the atomosphere with very infrequent problems from it. The usual problem with venting to the atmosphere is the bov leaking at idle. Dual-piston bovs are made so that it is impossible to leak at idle. I have an hks ssqv and the design is made so that vacuum and boost hold the bov shut instead of pulling it open. Pressure variation opens the bov. Im not sure which one you ordered but if the problem is ur bov is leaking the new one should definitely solve your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I assume that the mechanic will find me an HKS SSQV or a TURBOSMART, or a Greddy TYPE RS bov. It will be cheap though for about 100$. I want to fix this problem. I can't drive the car in traffic. It stalls all the time. I took some injectors from a J2 1.6 yesterday but the cable connector is not the same as the LC and I didn't want to cut the harness from my car. Will the beta 2 injectors have the same connector as the LC? I've asked you many times if I have to use the beta 2 2.0lt injectors or the 1.6 but noone seems to know. Do you know? The mechanic said that my injectors are 165cc and I need one more 500cc to work the turbo setup. As I've seen, the 2.0Lt injectors are 295cc so I will have the same fuel capacity. If I do this and take the Walbro pump I think that it will be a great start in order to achieve some good fuel capacity. Then, I think of going for the ecu remapping and I'm ok. What do you think?
 

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The beta injectors are 240cc. I know the beta injectors are not plug and play in your car but they can wired to it pretty easy. Thasilvia did it with his car. Im clueless on the 1.6 injectors. The walbro pump is definitely the way go as far as fuel pump. Im not so sure I think the same on the 5th injector setup. I think an adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator would be much easier and efficient.
 
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