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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do you think running synthetic oil in both 1.5l and 1.6l accent engines would be a good idea after having normal organic oil in the engine since day one? would it do anything to the engine down the road? i get alot of people saying no and yes ....
 

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yes it will be good i would sugest that you change the first syn oil fill early because it will probibily pick up alot of old deposits from your conv oil
and the only time syn is bad is if you keep switching back and forth between conv and syn oil
 

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Early in a motor's life (i.e. generally before 60,000-ish miles) it's definitely beneficial to make the switch to full synthetic. But after that, switching to synthetic is pretty pointless.
 

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What kind of Synthetic would be the best choice...??? anyone know...i've used castrol in my past vehicles and i'm happy with the results, but when i used to work at a service dept. They told me Mobile 1 would be the best. So should i stick to what i know or should i go with some other brand???
 

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Amsoil is the best but very expensive. Mobile One is second best and a great oil.
 

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Royal Purple > All
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
With synthetic i heard your oil changes last longer, is this true or do you change your oil like normal oil at the same amount of kms or miles. Like for conventional oil i change every 5000kms, if i got synthetic would i change it at 5000kms or can i wait until 10000kms?
 

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Hyundai OEM oil and filter info

Hello
This has been edited from another post I made a month after getting car
NOT trying to start flame war about dyno vers. synth oil.....just some facts

(OCT. 07)
I just had an oil change and filter done at my local Hyundai dealer (Ontario,Canada) as I just got my 99 Accent (used), and always replace all my fluids to remove any doubts as to WHAT was used by others. I re-registered my Accent (in my name)....so ALL N.America Hyundai dealers have a up to date computer record of my car's "service history".

The service manager suggested that I use synthetic oil, because of its better cold starting abilities (-30), and superior anti-wear advantage,to name just a few. Hyundai Canada has their own synthetic oil labeled Hyundai Full Synthetic 5W20 in plastic bottles. They use the same grade of oil (but NOT synthetic) as what comes in new cars from factory.It can be used year round and our summers get up to +36C.

They have used 5W20 in all Hyundai cars,SUV's and never had any problems.(as shipped from Hyundai factory !!) He assured (and laughed), when I said but what about "leaks" as my 99 has 185,000 km on it.........."a MYTH started by somebody". Synthetic oil has additives that actually "swell up and re-condition" old seals, and has been fully tested by Hyundai. Due to the fact that synthetic oil actually makes less sludge components and removes exsisting deposits, some people think their old "gunk" being removes will cause leaks....that's what those swelling additives are their for in the first place. You can switch back and forth and mix (roadside top-ups as example)

It is better (manager said), to see synthetic oil become dark and "used looking", after switching from regular oil high mileage cars,because it's doing its job and removing old sludge and deposits from internal parts and getting them into "suspended particles"...then the filter can trap them. The anti wear additives are better put on metal surfaces rather than just overtop sludge already there. Synthetic oil then fills-in (within reason) small microscopic irregularities in metal surfaces to prevent further wear and abrassions to bearings and things.

Synthetic oil works the same as "blood cells" meaning that if they are all the same size and shape,they can get through the bearings (like blood in capillaries in humans) much easier(retain viscosity longer) and that's why 5W20 can still lubricate even at high temps. It doesn't "burn off" as easily as regular oil,and can take high temps.without breaking down.

OEM OIL Filters :
Hyundai-Kia (OEM) filters are designed to trap more contaminants in suspension (more uniform filtering structure and large surface area), and have the correct* (10-12 lbs) valve-bypass settings to maintain constant oil flow, in case of severe blockage for whatever reason(or high volume demand).
....Honda Filters are set to high...15-18 lbs and sometimes those corner oil-change places us them as a replacement. (can cause problems :(!!)
It was suggested that after 2500 km I am to return to dealer and replace filter to remove any possibility of excessive deposits ,due to my high mileage, and unknown car history. AFTER checking oil in filter, he will advise me if I should go the full 7,000km or change at 3000 km (based on contamination of oil/filter...they do oil analysis)......doesn't hurt to replace filter only and top-up with same oil before due date.
BTW: valve cover removed and everything CLEAN...no deposits Jan 30/08.

Hope something here helped a bit :)

regards Terry
 

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LOL!!

Mobil1 > Amsoil
I disagree. To my knowledge Mobil does not even make a real 'full' synthetic oil. Full synthetic oil is produced with PAO's (poly alpha olefins) there is no mineral oil base as with most synthetic oils such as Mobil 1. Amsoil sells both types. Their XL line would be comparable to Mobil 1's extended drain interval product but their higher level products are full synthetics unlike most of their competitors.

I am a big believer in using synthetic oil and I use Amsoil. My 2000 Tiburon was very clean under the valve cover at 200,000 km. My wife's 1999 Elantra using the same 2.0 Beta engine and using only mineral oils is all sludged up and black in some areas after only 125,000 km. I'm going to switch her over to Amsoil and see if we can clean the engine up a bit.
 

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I change the Mobile One oil and Mobile One filter every 7500 miles. The engine (Alpha 1.5) has 115K miles on it and uses about 1 quart in 5K miles which is pretty much that same as when it was new. There is no sludge that I can see in the valve cover when I change the oil. There are no leaks either. I usually rev out 1st and 2nd a few times a day. Oh yeah, I autocross it to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, i think i might stick to using conventional oil, My car doesn't burn oil and has a good lot of kms on it so switching to synthetic would be pointless
 

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i use a semi-synthetic in my x3 excel 1.5 SOHC
Nulon Super-Street 5w40
second oil change coming up on it soon (used to run mineral) and it will be dirty and smelly - but its cleaning up the engine thats why
 

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So then what filter should i use...???
I would suggest using one of the following filters:
- an OEM Hyundai filter
- Purolator Pure One (or standard Purolator)
- Wix

As for oil, yes, use synthetic. And contrary to what Amsoil dealers would like you believe, Mobil1 is a full synthetic oil and better than Amsoil.
 

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synthetic oil is synthetic oil just get valvoline full synthetic its good u dont need a 100 F'N doller oil change in a damn 1.5L 92 hp car dude synthetic is pretty much for supras corvettes and other cars with like 4 times more hp.... we use synthetic to slow down wear on are motors so its good but it doesnt really matter what kind we put in as long as u change it before 3000 miles wont even change color. So my point is using this amsoil expensive ass oil is pointless in a economy car probaly made to use conventional oil......
 

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The main benefit to using synthetic oil is the ability to have longer OCI, oil change intervals. After doing my homework on oil over at bob is the oil guy.com I choose Pennzoil Platinum, Just because it performs at Mobile 1's level but costs less. I'm able to get 8,000 miles out of the oil and still have plenty of anti wear additives still in it, based on my blackstone labs oil analysis. Where a conventional oil would last half this long. Cost wise it ends up being a hair more than the conventional oil I would run but that is a good sacrifice for being able to have longer intervals.

The oil filter can be seen as more important than the oil. I agree with NovaResource with the Purolator Pure one filter and Wix filter but not the OEM Hyundai filter. After cutting it in half it is lacking in the materials and quality department.

The most important thing to realize is to not change your oil looking for horsepower. Not one specific oil will give any significant hp gain over another. You want to change your oil so your car lasts as long as possible, any other reason is just silly.

g4ebguyGTX, your right to say that you don't have to use synthetic oils. You just have to do oil changes more frequently. Those higher end cars you mentioned, Supras, Corvettes, etc. tend to use synthetics because they produce much more heat than an average car. That heat breaks down the oil faster than it does in say...our economy cars. If we used the same oil side by side as one of these cars we would be able to go longer because the oil would not break down as quickly and that would be the reason to use those "100 F'N doller oil change."

The bottom line is that if you're willing to do the 3 month 3,000 mile oil change use whatever oil you want to. Go use the dollar/quart oil at Wal-mart and your car will be perfectly fine.
 

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I use synthetic and change ever 3000 miles but thats becuz i feel like it gives me engine wear insurance like a little more than conventional...
 
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