[MPG3324]

Well, as you read earlier I did this mod. I was driving around all day today, probably like 100 miles on this mod so far. No problems yet. :hmmm:! But my intake is super loud now. It sounds alittle raspy to me. Also, I have like 115k on the odometer, so I'm not sure whether or not I should keep this mod. I take super good care of the engine as far as maintence goes. It runs as good as the day I bought it. Anybody else have any input???

 

[Acid7711]

Originally posted by MPG3324
[body]
But my intake is super loud now. It sounds alittle raspy to me.
[/body]

If you've ever heard a I4 that's had any kind of camwork to it, you'll know that they do sound raspy.

Have you run your car all the way up to redline yet? (6500rpm)

 

[Slow 2K2GT]

I have been to the redline and there are no problems.



[Edited by Slow 2K2GT on Sep 6, 2004 5:23 PM]

 

[ted33]

would you see a bigger improvment if you were to reset your ecu at the same time so that it can accomodeate the different readings that it is receiving?

 

[MPG3324]

I have brought it up to redline and no problems. Its so much louder thou that its alittle scary especially with 115k on it :

I was wondering about resetting the ecu also. Anybody (Ford) have any input on this???

 

[Shadohh]

I run the 1.8L cam 6 BTDC 46 ABDC
2.0 exhaust 50 and 10


with a 10 degree retarding thats

-4 and 56
40 and 20

My desktop dyno which sucks

show it moves the midrange power band to the top range.

 

[tibby01]

what about with a 10 degree advancing?

would the bottom end come out a bit stronger?

 

[Acid7711]

Originally posted by MPG3324
[body]
I was wondering about resetting the ecu also.
[/body]

ANY time you do any changes to your car's engine, imo, you should reset the ecu. Especially if you have done any drastic changes.

 

[Shadohh]

Originally posted by tibby01
[body]
what about with a 10 degree advancing?

would the bottom end come out a bit stronger?
[/body]

yeah haha

try 140 torqe at 3k.

but you drasticly lose topend

like try 78hp at 6k

 

[Acid7711]

Originally posted by Shadohh
[body]

Originally posted by tibby01
[body]
what about with a 10 degree advancing?

would the bottom end come out a bit stronger?
[/body]

yeah haha

try 140 torqe at 3k.

but you drasticly lose topend

like try 78hp at 6k

[/body]

Eeep.... That's a steep curve. What numbers does it give for 10 deg retard? I realize you posted the btdc as well as abdc.

 

[CROOOL_LANTRA]

Does this mod actually make more power topend? or does it just rob the low/mid range power to make it seem like theres more top end urge?

 

[Shadohh]

Originally posted by CROOOL_LANTRA
[body]
Does this mod actually make more power topend? or does it just rob the low/mid range power to make it seem like theres more top end urge?
[/body]

from what I see.

it takes 5 hp from the low end and gives ito the top end.

 

[fordfasterr]

well, i didnt expect this many people to try it... i'm glad you all like it.

also, to reply to a post above... when you do this mod, you should not be moving the belt. since the belt itself doesnt determine the position of the sprocket... rather, you should just be re-positioning the sprocket one tooth clockwise.

what i did was to mark the belt with a sharpie marker and mark the cylinder head too.. so i knew where the belt was and was sure to re-install the belt in the same exactly place... albeit i also marked the sprocket in relation to the belt which was marked in relation to the head... so everything lined up when i re-assembled it and THEN i used the adjustable section to move the cam around...

for the standard mod version.. ie, just moving the stock sprocket, its even easier since you dont really have to dissassemble anything... just loosen the tensioner, pull the belt to the side, turn the sprocket one tooth clockwise, and re-install in reverse order...

good luck everyone, and I dont want to hear about someone f_cking up this mod and coming back here saying.. "my motor blew up cuz of that stupid mod"... ****, anything you do to your car is at your own risk anyway !

 

[JAWS 021]

Originally posted by MPG3324
[body]
Well, as you read earlier I did this mod. I was driving around all day today, probably like 100 miles on this mod so far. No problems yet. :hmmm:! But my intake is super loud now. It sounds alittle raspy to me.
[/body]

Lets just hope thats not the valves starting to make contact with something it shouldint.

I would not try this mod....

10 degrees either way is a bit too much on this engine. Also.. i hope you guys know that if your messing with the intake cam.. your also altering the firing cycle.


[Edited by JAWS 021 on Sep 9, 2004 8:08 AM]

 

[JAWS 021]

Originally posted by fordfasterr
[body]
I agree with the newb's not trying this.

if you know what you are doing, then you should un-plug your ignition coil harness and turn the motor using the starter first to hear if there is any interference before you start the motor... at such low speeds as (starter speed) you will not damage anything even if the valves slightly hit the pistons and you will definately hear it... remember the valve spring will compress further if the valve touches the piston ...

like i said i set mine to 12 degrees retarded from crank rotation and i did not have any interference... i know i set it 12 degrees because i set it 6 notches retarded using my adjustable sprocket and each notch is worth 2 degrees of crank rotation...
[/body]

1) im not a noob... and i wouldint try this.
2) By the time you hear interference... guess what, its probably too late! One good hit and those valves could be bent and damaged.
Think about it..
3) Springs compressing?
Not if you have a valve coming out at an angle.. what the piston will do is push it upwards.
4) Each tooth is about 10 degrees..
Good luck

[Edited by JAWS 021 on Sep 9, 2004 8:28 AM]

 

[fordfasterr]

well, if the valve is all the way open and the piston touches it, it will push the valve up slightly because there is always some slack left on the spring.

at the low rpm of starter rotation, it will most likely just push the valve upwards allowing for that slack to work for you...

remember, valves are make of very touch material and they dont bend easily...


either way, a risk is a risk...




[Edited by fordfasterr on Sep 9, 2004 8:38 AM]

 

[JAWS 021]

Dont bend easily..
Never say never..

[Edited by JAWS 021 on Sep 9, 2004 9:17 AM]

 

[03tib]

Originally posted by fordfasterr
[body]
well, if the valve is all the way open and the piston touches it, it will push the valve up slightly because there is always some slack left on the spring.

at the low rpm of starter rotation, it will most likely just push the valve upwards allowing for that slack to work for you...

remember, valves are make of very touch material and they dont bend easily...


either way, a risk is a risk...


WELLfrom this statement i can tell that you really don't understand valve trains to well, any time the cam is opening/closing a valve there is not any slack you must realize that the valve is in constant contact with the cam lobe the valves are not that tough I see bent valves all the time, if the piston is pushing on the valve and the cam lobe is pushing on the valve stem take a wild guess as to the outcome.

[
[/
[/

 

[fordfasterr]

doesnt the xd come with hydraulic lash adjusters ?

i'm almost certain that it does... although I could be wrong... either way there is still some slak on the valve springs.

you would have to move the cam sprocket 2 teeth to make the valves impact the pistons.


.... update: the xd comes with tappets and shims... no hydraulic lash adjusters or lifters.. either way, there should be enough slack in the valve spring to allow the piston to push up on the valve for a few millimeters before it bottoms out on the cam.

as long as you dont go much past 10 degrees... you should be ok..

i think i may be at the highest threshold with 12 degrees.. since that is where I have my adjustable sprocket set to.

[Edited by fordfasterr on Sep 9, 2004 10:44 AM]

 

[03tib]

hydralics take up slack, liguid is not compressable, ail pressure is contsant on a running engine, the reason you can move hla's is they don't have a supply of oil when not running