Hyundai Forum: Hyundai Performance Forum banner

Brake upgrade

2.2K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  stank468  
#1 ·
I have a 2001 Accent GSi (1.6L motor LC chassis) and the brakes are quickly coming up for replacement. I plan on just using factory parts for the rear, they are only drums after all, but on the front I want the best I can find. The factory spec isn't nearly good enough, I get really bad brake fade after 3 or 4 corners and now that I am running the Falken Azenis Sport tires I can't achieve threshold braking as the brakes give out way before the tires do. So what I was hoping for was to find out anybody's experiences with which rotors, pads, and brake fluid are best and anything else that can help braking performance. I need hardware that can withstand the occasional track day at a road course, but mainly just for severe street duty. As a second point, I am considering removing my front foglights and ducting air onto my front brakes as well. I welcome any comments on that as well.
 
#2 ·
Upon returning to the Suspension and Brakes Tweaking area I now notice a bunch of posts on the same subject that I didn't notice this morning, my apologies to everyone, I should have waited for that third coffee to kick in before I tried something difficult .... like reading.
 
#3 ·
You're definitely gonna want to get a better pad (EBC, Hawk, etc.). I'm not quite sure who all makes pads for the Accent. Try the Tire Rack. You're also gonna wanna get at least a slotted rotor. You could go cross-drilled or both for that matter, but I'm not totally convinced of the benefit of having holes in the rotor. I think you only need one or the other and I prefer slots. They're effective at removing the gas "layer" that can build up under hard braking and there is more "contact" area for the pad. I definitely don't think you need both on one rotor. It looks good, but I don't think it would perform well. A brake cooling duct like you mentioned would far surpass any kind of cooling holes in the rotor could offer. By the way take a look on the brakes of a Champ Car or F1 car, they don't use holes. Only slots. Also, consider stainless steel braided lines. That's pretty much a given if you're gonna be at the track. Braking systems can easily exceed 1500psi within the hoses. Sure, the stock rubber ones are rated for that, but rubber's rubber and it expands with heat and constant pressure. Sadly, I'll bet no one makes a steel line for the Accent. I know Jeg's sells braided stainless hose that you would have to fabricate you're own fittings for. If you can't do that, you may want to just replace the rubber hoses. There's always gonna be some breakdown within the rubber that will not be noticeable to the naked eye. As far as brake fluid, you can use silicone if you don't have ABS (I believe). It won't attract moisture and I think it's got a higher boiling point. You might also want to try and see if you can get rear disc setup from a Tiburon. Check your junkyard for the hardware and it may be a fairly easy swap. I don't have any experience with that though, so it's just a suggestion. Also, try kspec.com for their brake setups. They carry 11" DBA rotors and 2 pot calipers. I don't know if you'd need a new, larger hub to accomodate them, but they could tell you more. Good luck!
 
#4 ·
KVR Brake Pads: http://shop.hyundaiperformance.com/shop/item.php?i=KVR_M7293
 
#5 ·
I do track events and autocross events in my 2002 Accent GS. Here is a list of my brake mods;

1. Axxis Metal Master brake pads about $45

2. Motul RBF 600 brake fluid. $10 per pint, I used 2.

3. Custom brake cooling ducts. I did a write up on how I did mine. They only cost me about $30 or so and are VERY effective I found out.

With only these mods, and with running Falken Azzenis tires(195/60/14) as well on the track, I get ZERO brake fade during 20 minute road course sessions!! And I am VERY hard on the brakes.
 
#7 ·
Originally posted by BlackedOutTib
[body]
Where's your write up on the ducts. I own a Tiburon but am interested anyway. Thanks
[/body]
Yeah..I would like to see the write up also. Brake cooling ducts can always make a dramatic difference on a disc brake system.
 
#8 ·
After looking at my Tib, it appears a brake duct wouldn't be too difficult to construct. I'm thinking I could get some 2" PVC piping with some 90's on it and run it from the oval opening in the front bumper back into the wheel arch (where a CAI would be located on the left one), cut a hole in it and there's the disc. I've just gotta be careful that at full lock the wheel doesn't hit it. Comments, thoughts from anybody?
 
#10 ·
Just an update. I have two options before me right now.
Door number one is so beautiful, I can't afford it right now and that makes me sad. KVR quoted me for a big brake kit. It includes:

13.0" rotors, hats, brackets, stainless steel lines front and rear, street performance pads, AP DOT 5.1 brake fluid, 4 piston KVR Python calipers and all hardware. The price would be 2395.00 Canadian plus freight.

He didn't say what size of wheel would be needed to clear that, but I'm going to guess 17's maybe there are some 16's that would fit, I don't know. I can't afford the kit and then have to get new wheels and rubber and Koni shocks to keep the body from rubbing the tires. Maybe next summer.

I've taken door number two and will be ordering KVR's cross-drilled and slotted rotors and their pads and next week I'm having my brake fluid flushed and refilled with Motul's DOT5.1, plus they are going to flush my transaxle fluid and replace it with Motul as well. I'll probably get my friend to help with the pads and rotors and at the same time I will get some of that caliper paint and paint the rusting drums and the calipers black. I've decided the colour theme of my car will be dark blue and black, so basically the factory paint and everything else including the wheels will be black, except for the two Hyundai symbols and my stainless steel ricer muffler.

Anyway, the morale of the story is, having a bit of money for upgrading cars is good, having more money is better.
 
#11 ·
There's just something about doing a superb upgrade to the fronts and leaving the rear drums alone that bugs me. I know it would cost a lot to swap, and at the moment no one seems to have a clue how to do a swap on my car, but I still would prefer to spend the money and have a well rounded brake upgrade. I know, I know, the rears do very little of the actual braking, and I will be spending a ton of money for little if any real braking gains, but still.
 
#12 ·
Ok, so in the end I went even cheaper, I just had the dealership do the brakes, rotors and drums needed machining and the pads and shoes needed replacing. $270, all done. I've given up for right now on upgrades, I'd rather pay my rent with ease and clear all the debt that is tied around my throat, or so it feels anyway. Besides, I'm moving to Florida next year, so what's the point of seriously upgrading my Accent, when I know I'll be selling it in less then 10 months.
 
#13 ·
Honestly, the KVR pads on stock rotors with ATE Super blue brake fluid lasted me about 10-15 laps on the track at Summit Point. Those pads are beastly. :)
 
#15 ·
Well, $1,735.52 USD for the KVR brake kit isn't too bad.
I wonder if I could get a deal like that for my tib..:ermm:
 
#16 ·
Check out this site www.stockcarproducts.com They sell roundy round parts, but....There are some serious goodys here... I am putting together my own big brake kit using a bunch of parts from here... They have pre-cut stainless lines, and adapters for a lot of stuff. Keep in mind this is a racing only site.. no warranty, no recourse.